For some people, there is very little hair stuck in the drains after a shower. For others, cleaning out the shower drain is a process that's only complicated by the amount of hair left in the bathroom drain. Thankfully, getting the hair out of the drain and restoring everything to perfect working order again is an easy solution. There are many ways to solve this problem and here are just a few:

1. Just like with a toilet, you can always use a plunger to clean out the shower drain. Simply place the plunger over the drain and suction out any blockage (in this case hair).
2. Snaking the drain is an option if you find yourself to be dexterous. Simply lower the snake through the overflow plate opening and maneuver it until you find the clog. Keep a stream of water running while you do this to help the snake move easier.
3. Chemicals may work with some clogs, but hair is harder to break up. For this reason, pouring chemicals down the drain may not be ideal in this case.

As a student in plumber classes, like the ones offered at Ashworth College, what other solutions do you know of to get hair out of a drain?

To learn more about plumber classes at Ashworth College go to our website

Even though hard water stains aren't a reason to call someone in plumbing careers, they are still unsightly and many people choose to get rid of them.  The problem is that these stains can be tricky and hard to remove.  Thankfully, there are ways of removing the hard water build up without damaging your toilet or shower.  Here are a few ways to do it.

• Make sure there is no water above the ring.  If this is in the tub, simply empty out the water and dry off the walls, but if it's a toilet, this could be a little more tricky.  Scoop out extra water with a bucket and then turn the water to the toilet off.  This will prevent it from filling back up.
• Saturate paper towels with vinegar and leave them all around the ring.  Let them soak for a few hours and then use a normal cleaner to scrub the ring once you remove the towels.
• Wet the ring then scrub it with a wet pumice stone. Make sure not to use the pumice stone on too dry of a surface because it could scratch the tub or toilet.
• If the stain is on a shower door, fill a spray bottle with white vinegar and generously spray the area. 
• For an easy household fix, try squeezing a lemon on the area.  The acidity in the fruit should break down any hard water stains.

Do any of these work?  What other advice do you have?

Imagine being underway with a home renovation plumbing project when you come across a major roadblock: a rusty pipe.  Not only is this damaging to your water quality, but it can be a major hazard when trying to complete your project.  You can't just leave it there, so what do you do?  You can call someone in plumbing careers or you can attempt to take it out yourself.  Should you go the DIY route, here are some steps to follow.

1. Spray the pipe with a spray lubricant, concentrating on the area with the rust you need to remove.
2. Allow the lubricant to soak into the rust on the pipe for at least 15 minutes. It may be beneficial to let it soak longer, depending on the amount of rust.
3. Use a propane torch to heat up the rusty portion of the pipe.
4. Choose the appropriate size pipe wrench and pry the rusted pipe loose. It's easiest to remove the rusty pipe while it is still hot from the propane torch.
5. Repeat Steps 1 to 4 if you don't get any response from your rusty pipe. You can use a larger pipe wrench or a cheater pipe (a piece of pipe added to the wrench for extra leverage) extension for additional leverage, as well.

Would you do this on your own?

If you're looking to go green, there are tips you can do in each room of your house.  From recycling in the kitchen to using green cleaning supplies in the bedroom, there are small changes you can make to save the environment without even thinking about it.  You can update your plumbing, or just your bathroom habits, and make the world a better place.  Here are some tips.

• If your faucets are leaking, that's one way you're wasting water and money.  By tightening these pipes, you're going to conserve water and your cash.
• Insulating your pipes, especially if you live in an area where the weather is often cold, would make a great way to go green.  In areas such as Chicago, the pipes can remain cold or frozen over a long period of time.  This can make it harder to warm up the water meaning you'd have to let the water run longer. 
• If your toilet is older than 15 years, chances are it isn't an eco friendly model.  Getting a newer model with a smaller tank or choosing a model where you can half flush or full flush will save you money.
• There are low flow shower heads and sink faucets as well that can also reduce water consumption.

As a student of online plumbing school, what other tips do you have?

Plumbing is just as much about the piping and fixtures as it is about the sink and toilet.  What puts the the pieces together is very important in making sure everything runs smoothly and operates the way it needs to.  As those in plumbing careers will tell you, what types of pipes you choose is just as important as making sure they're installed correctly.  Here are the three main types of pipes and the positive and negatives associated with each.

• Copper pipes are the most widely used and the ones that have been in use the longest.  These pipes usually last about 50 years so although they're expensive, they hold up for a long time.  With that in mind, they are the hardest to install both skill and time wise.  If temperatures do get below freezing, copper pipes have been known to freeze and crack.

• CPVC, or Chlorinated Polyvinyl Chloride, pipes are easy to install and usually very affordable.  These pipes do have a tendency to freeze easily as well, but they are prone to crack at the first cold weather snap. 

• PEX (Cross-linked polyethylene) pipes are an alternative to copper and CPVC pipes.  The PEX pipes fit better into small, tight spaces and like the CPVC pipes, they're easy to install and don't cost a lot of money.  No one is quite sure how long they typically last because they have only been in existance for about 10 years. 

What type of pipes do you prefer?

For problems around the home, we like to be able to fix things ourselves.  It saves money, time, and mostly just makes us feel accomplished when we can fix that pesky problem on our own.  Because of these reasons, it can be challenging to decipher what can be done on our own and when we need to call in the reinforcements.  Trying to differentiate when to DIY versus when to call someone working in plumbing careers can be tough to navigate.  Thankfully, there are some general rules of thumb to follow.

1. Do you have the right tools to handle a job and if so, do you know how to use them?  You don't want to do any more damage just because you aren't familiar with the equipment.
2. It takes a lot of time to complete some projects.  Consider whether or not you have the time to devote to a preparing, working on, and cleaning up the area. 
3. Speaking of time, consider how long you can go without this room.  If you only have two bathrooms in the house and one has a broken toilet, how long can you really go without it?  If you desperately need it now, shell out the money and call a plumber who can fix it in hours, not weeks.
4. Consider what will happen if this project isn't done right.  If you are simply painting a room and you need to get the carpets cleaned that's not a big deal.  However if you're trying to re-do the plumbing in your home and you fail you may end up flooding the house.  If you're not 100% confident you can avoid disaster, you may want to call in an expert.

What other DIY vs call a pro tips do you have?

Kitchen sinks serve a variety of purpses.  From washing dishes to washing babies, your sink is good for a lot more than filling up a water pitcher. One thing that may make your sink even more versatile, is adding a sprayer to your faucet.  This will allow you to easily wash your small puppy or fill up that large mop bucket that didn't fit underneath the faucet.  Here are some sink plumbing tips from ehow.

• Go under the sink and turn the two water shut-off valves clockwise to shut the water supply off to the faucet. There is one shut off valve for the cold water line and one valve for the hot water line.
• Use an open-end wrench to remove the connection between the sprayer hose and the faucet. Most faucet sprayers have a 3/8-inch connection nut to secure the hose to the faucet.
• Locate the hose weight that attaches around the hose under the sink. The weight pulls the hose down after you use the sprayer. The weight is two pieces that connect together with two screws. Use a Phillips-head screwdriver to remove the screws that secure the weight together and remove the weight from the hose.
• Use a pair of channel lock pliers to remove the retaining nut that secures the grommet the sprayer sits in when not in use. Go to the top of the sink and pull the sprayer, sprayer hose and grommet out of the sink.
• Assemble the new sprayer head to the new sprayer head hose according to the specific manufactures instructions. Most sprayer heads attach by threading the sprayer head onto the hose thread and tightening with a wrench. Set the new grommet into the sink and then go under the sink to attach the nut to secure the grommet. Tighten the retaining nut with the channel lock pliers to secure the grommet to the sink.
• Insert the faucet end of the hose through the grommet until the sprayer head sits inside the grommet. Go under the sink and wrap plumbers tape around the exposed thread on the faucet where the sprayer hose will connect.
• Thread the sprayer hose onto the faucet threads and tighten the hose with a wrench. Position one piece of the hose weight where the sprayer hose begins to bend toward the faucet. Attach the other piece of weight to the first and secure them together with the two retaining screws.
• Turn the water valves back on to supply water to the faucet. Run the water through the faucet and test your sprayer.

Would you add this?

If your toilet, or a client's toilet, is constantly making noise and the water doesn't stop moving, chances are it's still running for some reason.  As a plumber, you'll encounter all sorts of toilet troubles.  This one is fairly common and because of that, rather easy to fix.  Here's how from eHow:

1. Remove the tank lid. Examine the flapper, which is the rubber mechanism, usually red or black, that seals the water in the tank when seated, then allows water to drain from the tank when raised. Determine if a problem with the chain that runs from the flush lever to the flapper is preventing the flapper from seating properly. Add slack to the chain if it is too short, not allowing the flapper to seat fully, or remove excess chain, using a pair of snips.
2. Turn the shutoff valve behind the toilet completely clockwise to shut off the water to the toilet, then flush the toilet. Remove the damaged flapper from the tank, unhooking the flapper ears from the pegs on the bottom of the overflow tube and disconnecting the chain from the flush lever.
3. Cut the replacement flapper along the line marked "CUT" with scissors to remove the collar. Slip the flapper ears over the pegs on the bottom of the overflow tube. Hook the chain onto the flush lever, leaving the proper slack for the flapper to seat properly in the closed position. Turn the shutoff valve counterclockwise to refill the tank. Flush the toilet and observe whether the flapper rises and seats properly.
4. Determine if water is rising and spilling over into the overflow tube. This signals a faulty fill valve. Slightly bend the float arm down, to lower the water level. If your tank has a water-intake assembly instead of a float ball, pinch the clip attached to the thin metal rod and slide the clip and float cup down on the fill valve. Flush the toilet and determine if the water refills to a proper level.
5. Turn the shut-off valve completely clockwise, shutting of the toilet's water supply, if you observe that the fill valve is damaged and needs replacing. Flush the toilet and hold down the handle in order to remove the most amount of water from the tank. Absorb the remaining water with a towel, then place the towel beneath the tank. Unscrew and remove the supply tube from the bottom of the tank, using an adjustable wrench. Remove the fill valve. Position the replacement fill valve in the tank. Hand tighten the supply tube to the bottom of the new fill valve, beneath the tank. Tighten the supply tube an additional 1/2 turn, using the wrench. Turn the shut-off valve counterclockwise and check for any leaks.

Does this help?