Windows are great for being able to look at nature without having it come into your home, but what happens when the window seal is broken?  If the window seal isn't properly installed, then rain, cold air, and bugs can all find their way into your home.  Replacing a window seal is simple enough, but if you don't feel confident in your skills, you can always call on someone in construction careers to assist you.  If you do want to do it yourself, here's one way from eHow.

1. Using a putty knife, remove the old seal from the window.
2. If the window glass is damaged with condensation or cracks, you may need to replace it here.
3. Take your caulking gun and insert window-glazing caulk inside.  Trim the tip off the glazing caulk and pump the handle of the caulking gun until the sealant tube has been punctured and is ready to be dispensed.
4. Apply this caulk to the outside perimeter of the window pane.
5. Press caulk into the crack where the glass and wood meet. Use the putty knife to fill the crack completely.
6. Don’t forget to repeat these steps for the inside of the window too.

Would you do this?

Construction jobs can be expensive and time consuming.  Because of their high cost, it may be necessary to take out a loan.  The question is, how do you ask for a construction loan and when you do, what kind parameters are there on these loans?  eHow has some tips on securing a loan that you can use; whether you work in construction careers or just want to update your house.

1. Find a bank or lending institution that offers construction loans. Ask the loan officer questions to ensure that he has experience in this area. Construction loans are more complicated than a home mortgage, and you can easily run into problems (such as your loan amount or the monthly payments being completely different) if not processed correctly.
2. Get pre-approved so you know how much house you can afford. Be ready to explain whether your house will be owner occupied and how long you intend to live in it or whether you want it for investment purposes. These factors determine your finance options.
3. Determine whether you want to lock in your rate or let it float hoping that interest rates go down. Make sure you understand whether the rate will remain the same once the construction loan converts into a mortgage (after finishing the construction).
4. Enter into a written construction contract with a builder once you have selected a reputable one. The contract should clearly outline each party's responsibilities. Additionally, it should include the amount the builder expects to receive and any contingencies (for example, contingent upon passing inspection). It should also state whether the amount includes sales tax if applicable.
5. Obtain the necessary insurance. Banks normally require construction and liability insurance (which you or the builder can provide if he carries it). Some banks also require workman's compensation. If the builder subcontracts his work, he'll need to write a letter stating that he doesn't have employees.
6. Make sure the loan is properly structured. Consult with a real estate attorney if you have any doubts.

Would you do this?

When people think of construction, they typically imagine concrete, hammers, nails, and hard hats.  But there is so much more to construction than just those.  Stucco remains a popular way to decorate the outside of houses.  It is sturdy, waterproof, and doesn't require constant painting.  In areas of the United States, such as the southwest, stucco remains the most popular way to decorate a home.  But how do you make it?  eHow shows you how.

1. Determine where you want to build the wall. Pound small wooden stakes into the ground with a mallet to mark where the wall begins and ends. Run a piece of string between the stakes. Mark the position of the wall on the ground with landscaper's spray paint.
2. Dig an 1-foot-wide, 18-inch-deep trench along the spray-painted line. Mix the concrete in the wheelbarrow according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you are building a very long wall or other structure, mix the concrete in batches so you can pour the footing in sections. Pour the concrete into the trench, then smooth out the top of the concrete to make an even footing or platform for the concrete blocks. Place pieces of rebar vertically in the poured concrete, making sure they are positioned to stick up into the cells of the concrete blocks. Allow the concrete to cure according to manufacturer's directions.
3. Lay out the first row of concrete blocks. Cut a block with a circular saw to finish the row, if necessary. Mix a bag of mortar with water in a shallow container according to the manufacturer's instructions. Trowel 1/2-inch of mortar onto the bottom of each concrete block. Place the block so that the rebar comes up through the cells. Place the blocks as close together as possible and fill any gaps between the blocks with mortar. Check the first row of concrete blocks for level with a carpenter's level.
4. Stagger the second row of concrete blocks over the first row. Place the cut block at the other end of the wall for the second row. Check that the wall is straight, level and plumb as you lay the blocks. Build the wall to height. Fill in the holes in the top of the last row of blocks with mortar. Trowel away excess mortar from the joints between the blocks before it dries.
5. Mix a batch of stucco in a shallow container according to the manufacturer's instructions. Add stucco coloring if desired. Trowel a layer of the stucco about 3/8-inch-thick onto the wall. Cover the entire with first layer and allow to dry according to manufacturer's directions.
6. Apply two more layers of stucco with the same process; allow each layer to dry thoroughly. Create a design in the final layer of stucco with a trowel or a purchased stucco texturing tool, if desired. Allow the final coat to dry according to manufacturer's directions.

Would you do this?

The most important part of any structure is the foundation.  Without a sturdy base, the walls won't stay up, the floor will crack, and the elements will become a serious problem.  Foundations need to be level and secure, but above all, they need to be durable.  Here are some tips from doityourself.com to help lay the foundation for not only any structure, but for your construction business.

1. Preparing the Ground - After you have determined the desired thickness of your foundation, you need to get the ground ready to install it. Clear the ground and excavate a space that is twice the depth of what your foundation will be. Remove any large stones, branches or other such objects from the soil.  Next, level and compact the soil. This can be done with a rented compactor. Place a loose, even layer of sand or gravel over the area. This will prevent moisture from seeping up through the ground while you lay your concrete slab. Then lay some polyethylene as a waterproof  membrane over the layer of sand or gravel.
2. Building the Frame - Build a wood frame for the perimeter of the excavated site according to the specifications of your foundation. You will add screed rails (2x4 wooden boards) on the opposite and exterior sides of this perimeter. Lay a straightedge (a 2x4 or other long and flat material) across the expanse of your frame, ultimately resting on the screed rails. Use metal stakes to support the screed rails. Place them so that the bottom of the straightedge sits at the level where the top of your slab will be.
3. Pouring the Concrete - Now you are now ready to start working with the concrete. After mixing the concrete, begin pouring it into your foundation frame. As the concrete fills the frame, the straightedge will slide across the screed rails, leveling the wet concrete. Once all the excess concrete has been removed and your concrete house foundation is leveled, remove the screed rails and straightedge.
4. Finishing Up - Use hand trowels or power trowels to remove flaws in the smooth texture of the concrete. This must be done while the concrete is still wet and malleable. Once you have completed this step, leave the foundation to dry and cure. Different types of concrete require different amounts of time to cure.

What other tips do you have?

This Halloween, wearing a scary outfit and eating candy are only part of the fun.  By building a haunted house, not only can you help your friends, family, and neighbors have fun, but you also can show off your construction skills.  Unlike building a house, a haunted house is temporary and isn't made to withstand rain, snow, and hail.  It just needs to be something fun that will last a week or two max.  Here are some simple steps to follow:

• Make plans. Before you even consider to get out to make your haunted house come alive, you first must conceive it. Sketch a layout and write up a brief but detailed walk through of what guests will experience, as well as how you will pull this scheme off and your special effects and lighting. Make sure everything is feasible and do not go overboard as you plan. Ask yourself some of these general questions:Will this house be aimed to scare, or will it joke? Will the general audience be younger or older? Should I use actors or audio- animatronics.
• Make it dark. Do not put a lot of lights in your haunted house, otherwise people will be relaxed and know what to expect. They will also be able to tell where the actors are. If it is dark, they will be tense and have a better time. Little strobe lights can add drama and fear, but don't add to many.
• Have surprises. In most haunted houses you will be walking with a group or family in front of you, then an actor will jump out and scare the people in front of you. You will know that the actor is hiding in a particular spot and expect him as you are following them. Here’s how to fix that: Have some actors jump out in a particular time but not with all the other actors, then people will not expect him.
• Consider using film characters. You might have characters like Jason, Freddy, Leather face, Michael Myers etc. That will really scare some people. Watch movies so you can get a good idea of what they wear and look like. You can also get pictures off the internet. However, do not go overboard: you should also be original. In fact original haunted houses without using cliche movie characters are more sophisticated and haunting.
• Use special effects. Try mirrors, black lights, and smoke to confuse the visitors. If constructing rooms yourself, make them oddly shaped (long, narrow, high and low ceilings, walls at a 45 degree angle to the floor rather than completely vertical.)
• Research. Go to other haunted houses for tips on things that you can apply to your haunted house. If you want, you can ask the people running it. Just remember to be original. The Internet is a great resource tool.

Would you do this?

Few things are as outdated as wood panneling, shag carpeting, and popcorn ceilings.  While they add texture to an otherwise bland surface, popcorn ceilings can be messy, spiky, and be a great place for asbestos to hide.  Painting over these ceilings don't cover the kernels entirely and the only way to get a popcorn-free surface is to scrape it.  If you do decide to go ahead with the removal, call in an expert to ensure there are no asbestos hiding up there.  If there aren't:

• Remove all the furniture the room if possible, or cover it with waterproof plastic sheets. Spread plastic sheets or tarpaulins on the floor to protect it.
• Put on a long sleeved shirt, wear a hat and make sure your eyes are covered. Safety goggles with sides are best.
• Use that spray bottle and water to moisten an area of 2 to 3 square feet. Alternatively, you could us a long nap ceiling paint roller dipped in water. The objective is to wet the popcorn enough to soften it and make it "easy" to scrape off without soaking the ceiling above.
• Once a section has softened, use an 8 or 10 inch taping knife to scrape the popcorn off the ceiling.
• Move across the ceiling, section by section, moistening and scraping until all the popcorn is gone.
• Once the popcorn has been removed, sand the ceiling and paint it. You will probably have to Spackle some sections of the ceiling, some maybe more than once, to get it as smooth as you would like.

In construction, would you expect to take care of this when remodeling an older home?

With construction, you may be building all sorts of projects.  From bridges, to walls, to highways, there is no limit to how big a construction project can get.  That being said, there's no limit to how small projects can get either.  One element that is a fixture in many houses, and therefore an important aspect to home construction, is the screen front door.  Here are several easy steps to constructing that project.

1. Build the frame for the door. We cut the 6-inch fir down to 5-1/2 inches to create the stiles (vertical) and top rail (horizontal). For the bottom (kick) rail, we cut down the 8-inch fir to 7-1/2 inches. 
2. To attach the stiles and rails, fit the table saw with a tongue and groove bit. Cut tongues (deep ridges) in the stiles and grooves (slots) into the rails.
3. Cut a 5/8” rabbett cut on the inside of each piece to create a space to attach the screen.
4. Use dowels and glue to fasten the frame. Clap tightly and let dry.
5. Paint or stain the frame and the screen stop piece. Be sure to cover the inside of the groove as well. Let dry.
6. Install screen material with staples. Ensure material is stretched tightly during installation for a neat appearance.
7. Miter cut the trim to size to fit inside the rabbet cut and cover the staples. Attach the trim using a brad nailer.
8. Attach hinges and hardware then hang.

Do you have any other hints?